I‘m in Paris again! And when in Paris, I‘m usually visiting all my favorite places here. Jardin du Luxembourg, the big park located between Quartier Montparnasse, Quartier Latin and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, definitely belongs to my list of favorite Parisian places.

A special place in Parc du Luxembourg

It‘s a big, lush park right in the center of the River gauche area of Paris and always offers a rewarding, relaxing stay. One of the most remarkable corners of the park is the large, octagonal basin of water, right in front of the prestigious Palais du Luxembourg, which houses the French Senate today.

The basin is where most people hang out on the many seats and benches around and enjoy the water and the sun. The basin is also famous for model boats sailed by children. It‘s pleasant to watch children sail their different, colorful boats there.

There‘s also a big playground not far from the basin, with an inconspicuous looking small building next to it: The Théâtre des Marionettes du Jardin du Luxembourg. Its origins in Jardin du Luxembourg date back to the 1860s. However, it was not until 1933 when Robert Desarthis founded the Guignol puppet theater, as it exists until today.

In fact, it‘s the only dedicated venue for puppet theatre in Paris.

Guignol du Luxembourg, an ambigious character

The central puppet character, Guignol, was created by Laurent Mourguet in the early 19th century in Lyon. Guignol symbolizes justice, cleverness and defiance of authority, all hidden in the seemingly harmless children‘s puppet. Until today, Guignol shows in the puppet theatre are mainly for children, but are also enjoyable for adults. They feature classic storylines with humor and moral lessons.

Yet, in past times, especially during the third French Republic, Guignol shows often included subtle satire that mocked bureaucrats and politicians. Adults in the audience often caught the double meanings behind jokes made for the children.

Guignol can be compared to „Kasperl“ or „Hanswurst“ in Austria/Germany or to „Mr. Punch“ in the UK. The ambigious sided aspects of the character also exist in these variants.

I haven‘t seen any play of the Guignol du Jardin du Luxembourg, but when my daughter was in the right age, we visited similar plays in Vienna quite often. In Vienna‘s Prater, there‘s a small Kasperl theatre with an adorable set of puppets. I remember the side jokes and political allusions built in the program, especially for the grown-ups.

But back to Guignol du Jardin du Luxembourg: what‘s special about the place for me?

Readers of my blog might already know, that I have a weakness for hidden, not so popular and old-fashioned urban places.

A place, fallen out of time

I love the fact, that the Théâtre des Marionettes in Jardin du Luxembourg seems like it has not changed since decades.

You can tell by the typography used on signs, doors and posters, that they were made in another time.

I have been coming by this place almost every time, I have been in Paris in the last twenty years. I am not aware of any distinct changes to the building. And Paris has changed a lot.

This place still looks like a monolith, fallen out of time. A witness of the (early) twentieth century, still standing in 21st century Paris.

I hope it will stay like this for much longer and encourage you to stop by while you‘re in the city.